In the heart of London, a culinary adventure awaits, where ancient traditions meet modern innovation. Oudh 1722, a restaurant nestled near Borough Market, is a testament to the fusion of historical Awadhi cuisine and contemporary culinary artistry. This establishment, helmed by the renowned chef Aktar Islam, is a special-occasion destination that transports diners to the Nawabi era of 1722, a time of opulence and slow, thoughtful cooking. The restaurant's name, a nod to the Nawabi legacy, sets the stage for a dining experience that is both luxurious and deeply rooted in tradition.
The menu at Oudh 1722 is a journey through Awadhi flavors, beginning with a traditional lamb shorba, a welcome broth that sets the tone for the culinary adventure ahead. The spherical gol guppa, filled with sprouting moong shoots and tiny edible flowers, offers a burst of flavors in every bite. The chaat and naashta section showcases a modern twist on street snacks, with white peas, tempered yoghurt, and sev, providing a delightful contrast to the traditional dishes.
The heart of the menu lies in the gilawat section, featuring melting kebabs that are the stuff of Lucknowi legend. The gulnaar tandoori chicken, in smoked tomato and cream, is a testament to the restaurant's commitment to flavor and texture. For vegetarians, the sabzi section offers a delightful array of dishes, such as the kaddu ki qorma and gobi mussalam, showcasing the versatility of Awadhi cuisine.
Oudh 1722's culinary journey extends beyond the traditional, with a modern twist on ancient dishes. The nihari, a dish traditionally cooked overnight and eaten at dawn, is reimagined with a contemporary touch. The kitchen, led by George Cooke, previously of Brat and Noble Rot, showcases a fusion of traditional and modern techniques, resulting in a unique dining experience.
The restaurant's layout is a charming blend of the old and the new. The building, once a hatmaker's workshop and later home to the restaurant Lupins, has been transformed into a multi-floor space with narrow staircases, anterooms, and hidden back doors. The bar in the attic adds a touch of whimsy, creating an atmosphere that is both intimate and captivating.
The dining experience at Oudh 1722 is a testament to the chef's ambition and sincerity. The food is labor-intensive, styled with precision, and generously portioned, ensuring a delightful and satisfying meal. The Awadhi tradition, with its emphasis on slow-cooked dal Bukhara and lasooni jhinga, is brought to life with a modern twist, creating a unique dining experience.
The star of the show, for this writer, was the mutanjan dam biryani, a mountain of fragrant rice with melting oxtail and sweet carrots. The ras malai, a soft dumpling of fresh cheese soaked in chilled spiced cream, and nimish, a milk soft-serve with saffron, mango, and rose petal, provide a sweet finale to the meal. Oudh 1722 is a Michelin-chasing restaurant, but it is also a midriff-expanding culinary adventure, offering a unique blend of history and innovation.
In conclusion, Oudh 1722 is a restaurant that should not be missed. It offers a unique dining experience, combining ambition and sincerity with genuinely interesting cooking. For those seeking a taste of the Nawabi era, Oudh 1722 is a must-visit destination, providing a delightful escape from the fast-paced world of modern cuisine.
